Generally, I like to do new things. I like to go new places. So when deciding where to go ski touring I usually focus on a new peak or run that I have never done. But the one place that is always a front runner for a day out is the Spearhead Traverse. Last year I wasn’t able to do it on skis, so this season I was thinking about it a lot. Waiting for good conditions and timing, we decided to do it on the first day of daylight savings, March 10. We were planning to leave as early as possible and get the first ride up the Blackcomb gondola and then glacier chair, and showcase t-bar. However that did not happen. Our family left the house at about 7:30 and then we had to pick up a car in Pemberton, drop it in Whistler and then head up to lot 8. By the time we were at the excalibur gondola it was past 9. Taking the lift up and skiing the short section down to glacier chair I didn’t think I would need to buckle up or put my touring boots into ski mode as it would save time. But on the very last slope I caught an edge and then slid down, collecting snow into both of my ski boots. This happened because my gortex pants were not over my boots either. At the bottom of the run I took my boots off one by one and picked as much snow out as I could. Riding the chair and t-bar with my mum and sister we all traversed across the Blackcomb glacier to the backcountry boundary and it was quite busy. While putting our skins on we were with about 10 other people.
Once at the top of the climb, we looked across at the Spearhead range and could see people going up the next climb, Decker. At the beginning of the day it can be frightening to think about how much ground you have in front of you to travel, but it is awesome knowing that you can cross it.
It was then 11am and I was slightly worried about the daylight, my dad tried to reassure me saying “We have headlamps”, but still, I didn’t want to plan on descending the Singing Pass trail in the dark. We said goodbye to my mum and sister they would ski out Body Bag Bowl and return in bounds. Having brought my lightweight skis, I was super glad for them on the way up, but I had to be more cautious on the descent sections as I didn’t entirely trust them and from the get go the snow was hard and lumpy. However ski down to the bottom of the Decker climb was scenic as we were on a small ridge and I wished my camera was more accessible. The next climb made me quite worried for the rest of the day, but thankfully that was the worst climb of the day. Every few steps one of my skis would slip down on the hard crust. I was wishing I had brought ski crampons and was doubting whether I would be able to keep my mental game cool throughout the day if it continued to be so slippy. At one point I slid down a few meters and was a bit pissed off, snow really can be infuriating. Close to the top of the route a duo passed below us. This didn’t make me feel any better as I knew we needed to be going pretty fast to make it though in a reasonable time. I later learned that they had had super light race gear and were travelling at a very fast speed.
On the other side of Decker we passed a couple groups and ran into some friends. Blythe, who we had skied Cayoosh with and her dad Raf and his partner Sharon, who also is my best friends mum. It was super cool to meet up with them, I remembered the last time I had done the Spearhead in a day and that we were expecting Raf and Sharon to pass us at some point, but they had had to turn around due to a late start time. It was weird how both times we were doing it, so were they. Their group started up the Trorey climb a bit sooner than we did and they went a different way than us. We went up the more direct, but steeper route and the went further around near the Pattison. This climb wasn’t the best either, but it felt better than the previous one and the snow wasn’t as annoying.
The top section was slightly technical but I found it fun. Reaching our high point for that climb it was pretty cold so we quickly removed our skins, shoved them in our jackets and then skied down.
That small run could be super fun if they snow was deep and I remember it being being better last time we were there. We then traversed to the base of the Tremor climb and watched Raf, Sharon and Blythe ski down and traverse higher than us. Putting my skins back, I ate a hard boiled egg and some chocolate and I could also delayer because the next section would be better protected from the wind.
Making our way up this slope I felt really good at the beginning and we merged with the other group. I was glad that my dad could be out touring with a friend of his, as he isn’t usually with one. Near the top of the climb I fell back a bit and wished I had eaten more when we were stopped and was excited for another small break on the other side.
The wind picked up again when we started to descend onto the Platform glacier and we stopped for our longest break at the saddle between the next climb. I ate an energy bar and some nuts and had a good drink of water while gazing at the beautiful Fitzsimmons glacier. Then, we could see a group of people making their way under Overlord on one of the last climbs of the trip. It was 2:30pm and it was strange as to be still going slightly further back, but I knew we were around half way done time and elevation wise. On our way up the other half of the Platform glacier I decided to eat an apple, which was a bad decision as it was very hard to breath, while eating and exerting myself. At the small col leading to the Ripsaw glacier, we were still with Raf, Sharon and Blythe and by dad asked if anyone one wanted to turn around. By then I’m not sure if it would be worth it, but after then it definitely wouldn’t be. The only direction was onward. Traversing the glacier easily, the short descent to the Naden glacier was tricky. To save time we started down the first gully we saw tracks down. I took my skis off and walked down as I saw Sharon with her skis on, do a little tumble over a rock, she was totally fine, but I was more comfortable with my skis off. We then ascended the small way up to Macbeth and the wind was back.
The ski down the MacBeth glacier was one of the longer ones and I didn’t enjoy it, but I made it down without falling so that was great. From the top we had looked at the small spine and thought that it would be safer and better to descend below it instead of go across it. But reaching it we saw that there were only tracks going over it and none below it. We needed to bootpack but it was easy and the views were amazing. At that moment we could see the speedy duo going up Iago and another group crossing under Fitzsimons. Looking back, we knew we were the last team doing it that day. On this climb I slowed down a bit and Raf, Sharon and Blythe split from us.
I was okay to be going slower as I had realized that we probably would need to take out our headlamps and I didn’t want to push too hard as we still had some climbs to go. Our friends waited at the top of Iago and we saw them before they descended and at the base of the Benvolio climb.
The ski down Iago was hard because of the melt-freeze crust and I found it difficult, but I made it down and was happy to be there. From there is when it seems you have rounded the corner and are returning to the village, though there is a lot of distance, there is not too much elevation gain needed. So we had some snacks before heading up the last significant climb of the day. I had put some gummies into my camera bag/fanny pack so that I could chew on them on this part and I did find it helpful. Many times when going up this hill I have told myself to just look at the few steps ahead of me and not worry about the whole picture. Doing this again, I think that also helped. The temperature had started to cool and when we were at the Benvolio – Fitzsimons col all of us put some more layers on.
The lighting was really pretty, but it was also diminishing as we traversed along the slope and took our skins off after a slight uphill. Next was the couloir down onto the Overlord glacier. We could see the tat (piece of rope) we had used in the summer to rappel down this section and I was happy I could descend it on my own this time.
Raf and my dad skied it, but the rest of us walked down and I found no shame in it as it was filled with rocks and quite steep. Putting our skis back on, it was crazy to think about how massive the crevasses are on that glacier. Under a few meters of snow there were gaping, 100 meter cracks in the ice. It is so weird how covered they can be. This ski was fairly nice but very gentle and we stopped to put our skins on again. Going up this slope I felt that I had energy and was thoroughly enjoying the view and lighting of the mountains and sky around us.
Reaching the col between Whirlwind and Fissile I looked back at all of the glaciers I had crossed and gave myself a mental pat on the back. We still had to go up a short bit, shuffle a lot and go down, but it was all pretty easy compared to the rest of the day. The ski down Whirlwind was decent but pretty tracked out. When we hit the south facing part it was crazy how much harder the snow was due to the freeze – thaw. Going down this we could see the huge new hut that will open in the summer. Ascending the final mini hill to the top of Cowboy ridge we discussed the hut a bit. I am excited to see just how luxurious it will be compared to a tent. Then, we put our skins to rest, put on more layers, took out our headlamps and I put my helmet on. At last, all there was was down, but, I was worried that my legs would be sore on this part. The previous 2 days I had started running again as the snow on the side of the road had melted enough to do so and my legs were not used to it yet. Luckily, my legs were fine and the trail was fast. It was really cool to see the lights of the village through the trees as we approached it and reaching the run was amazing. We decided that we would go eat burgers at the Dublin Gate.
Being quite tired, but also hungry I was excited to sit down. We were in the village just before 9pm, it had taken us just under 11 hours. This was a bit disappointing as it was longer than last time I did it in a day, but I thought it made sense as I have recently been focusing on strength training and not endurance. It also told me that I need to get out running more often now and get out on long and exhausting days whenever I can.
This was well written and kept me very informed it seems like quite a task to be able to do what you and your Dad do. But well done and again beautiful scenery. Thank you